What are exosomes, and do they really make skincare products better?

The University of Cincinnati's Kelly Dobos was featured in an Allure article discussing what  exosomes are and if there is substance behind the hype of their use in cosmetic products.

Exosomes are tiny structures released by cells that contain molecules like proteins, lipids and genetic materials. Over the past three years, they have increasingly grown more popular as an ingredient in skincare products, with claims that they help address visible signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles and skin laxity.

Dobos explained many products use exosomes derived from plants, and these may lead to benefits on the manufacturing side like lower production costs, a longer shelf life and fewer regulatory hurdles. Some experts claim plant-derived exosomes are safer than animal or human-derived counterparts, but Dobos said there can be inconsistencies in quality.

“These vesicles tend to be larger than human exosomes, and less is known about their uptake in human systems, so there are still many unknowns with plant-derived exosomes,” said Dobos, a cosmetic chemist and adjunct instructor in UC's Cosmetic Science Program in the James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy.

Dobos said more research is needed to determine if the exosomes are actually able to back up claims companies make about their benefits. It is also unclear at this point which ingredients pair best with exosomes and what concentration of exosomes is needed for the ingredient to be effective in products.

Read the Allure article.

Featured photo at top of a woman washing her face. Photo/Extreme Photographer/iStock.